kitchen chests of drawers

Some photos of the completed chests of drawers…
petalsI was asked to make an extra piece with open shelves to house a microwave oven.

open shelvesThere’s oodles of storage space, especially with the inner drawers. All the drawers spring open by pushing on the drawer front.

drawers

I’m very happy with the way these substantial pieces sit in the finished kitchen. They complement the other solid items, such as the Aga, whilst the geometric patterns prevent everything looking too bulky.kitchenwww.danieltomlinson.co.uk

chests of drawers

I’m making 3 chests of drawers for a kitchen, with the following 2 designs…chest of drawers 2

chest of drawers 1I’ve selected the species of wood. The pale ones are ripple ash and aspen. The darker ones are plum and cherry.

Both designs are based on the same grid, so I stared by drawing this out full size.grid and compasses

I then had to decide on the direction of the grain for each piece by doing a rough sketch.

grain directionThere are many ways to cut veneer. The curves on both designs all have the same radius, so I bought a gouge with a curve that is near to what I need and roll it around the curve to get it as close as possible.cutting veneerI gradually piece the pattern together with veneer tape to form a patchwork.veneer tape This is how it looks underneath…taking shapewww.danieltomlinson.co.uk

moon screen

I’ve made some screens to cover a bedroom alcove in a new house.moon screenThe house is by the sea, near Ramsey on the Isle of Man. I took some photos while I was there earlier this year and based the screen colours on a photo I took of a local beach. Dhoon BayI used 3 veneers to create the design. The dark wood is fumed oak. Fumed oak is made by exposing regular oak to amonia fumes until it turns to a dark shade. The light coloured veneer is poplar burr, and the the grey is a re-constituted veneer made by Alpi.raw materials

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watching TV in style

Here are some photos of the TV panel, drawers and shelves that I’ve completed and installed. I hope you like it all.TV panel, drawers, shelves and slate.The panel veneer is poplar burr with a solid cherry surround and ebony stringing for the dark line border. The surface is Welsh slate, Berwyn slate quarry near Llangollen.

drawers openI made the drawers from birch plywood and sprayed a high gloss lacquer on the fronts.

IMG_1524This is a detail of the drop flaps. I mitre cut the solid cherry edge and the ebony inlay. The hinges are hidden when the flap is closed.

glass shelvesThese two glass shelves are 12mm thick. I cut a 12mm wide slot with a router into the backing and simply slotted them in. The fit was tight enough to hold them in place without any more fixing. Phew!

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Omega watch case photos

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I’m fixing a hole…

I’ve managed to veneer all the surfaces of the watch case. There were many holes and small nicks in the veneer, some of which I was able to repair with matching veneer pieces. The hole in this photo is a natural hole in the wood, so I chose to fill it with different shades of wax filler.

I simply rubbed the wax filler crayon over the hole until it was completely full.

Then I smoothed it off with a cabinet scraper and sand paper.

Here’s the outside of the case with all the holes repaired. Not long to go now until the whole box is finished!

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more Omega watch case updates…

I decided to use cramps to hold the base of the box whilst the glue was setting, rather than using the vacuum bag press. This was only really because my bench was covered with bits and pieces, and I didn’t want to spend time clearing it all away and setting up the vacuum pump. Anyway, I came up with this slightly eccentric contraption.

With the base attached I decided to add a small border to the inside curved edge. The pearl glue that I used to attach the ripple ash veneer to the inside is very dark, and left an ugly glue line. I routed around the inside curve to leave a 3mm rebate running around the inside edge. After a bit of experimenting with different thicknesses of walnut border, I sandwiched 7 pieces of walnut veneer and bent them around the curves.

Next was to cut out a recess for the hinges to fit flush in the lid. I agonised with Mark (whose case it will be) over many different methods of hinging. The difficult thing was that he wanted the box to open along the curved edge, and the hinges will only work if the edge is straight. Here’s a photo of the simple solution.

With the hinges accurately attached, the lid moves nicely up and down and has a pleasing weight to it.

Finally for this post, here’s a detail of the hinges. I alway use steel screws whilst I’m working on a piece, as brass ones can easily shear off as they they go in and out. I’ll replace them with brass ones when it attach the lid for the last time. You can also see the walnut border trimmed flush to the surfaces.

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