I’ve made my own synthesizer! I bought it as a kit from Mutable Instruments. I soldered all the electronic components onto the circuit boards, and instead of buying the ready made enclosure, I decided to make my own from ripple ash.It was tricky to cut all the holes in the correct places, even with a template.I was able to add a power switch to my design.And here it is with the rest of my current rig. Even though it’s just a simple wooden case, it makes using the synth a more tactile experience, so I feel more inspired to use it. I’m looking forward to building another soon!www.danieltomlinson.co.uk
I’m making 3 chests of drawers for a kitchen, with the following 2 designs…
I’ve selected the species of wood. The pale ones are ripple ash and aspen. The darker ones are plum and cherry.
Both designs are based on the same grid, so I stared by drawing this out full size.
I then had to decide on the direction of the grain for each piece by doing a rough sketch.
There are many ways to cut veneer. The curves on both designs all have the same radius, so I bought a gouge with a curve that is near to what I need and roll it around the curve to get it as close as possible.I gradually piece the pattern together with veneer tape to form a patchwork. This is how it looks underneath…www.danieltomlinson.co.uk
I decided to use cramps to hold the base of the box whilst the glue was setting, rather than using the vacuum bag press. This was only really because my bench was covered with bits and pieces, and I didn’t want to spend time clearing it all away and setting up the vacuum pump. Anyway, I came up with this slightly eccentric contraption.
With the base attached I decided to add a small border to the inside curved edge. The pearl glue that I used to attach the ripple ash veneer to the inside is very dark, and left an ugly glue line. I routed around the inside curve to leave a 3mm rebate running around the inside edge. After a bit of experimenting with different thicknesses of walnut border, I sandwiched 7 pieces of walnut veneer and bent them around the curves.
Next was to cut out a recess for the hinges to fit flush in the lid. I agonised with Mark (whose case it will be) over many different methods of hinging. The difficult thing was that he wanted the box to open along the curved edge, and the hinges will only work if the edge is straight. Here’s a photo of the simple solution.
With the hinges accurately attached, the lid moves nicely up and down and has a pleasing weight to it.
Finally for this post, here’s a detail of the hinges. I alway use steel screws whilst I’m working on a piece, as brass ones can easily shear off as they they go in and out. I’ll replace them with brass ones when it attach the lid for the last time. You can also see the walnut border trimmed flush to the surfaces.
Here’s an update on the progress of the Omega Constellation watch case I’m making. I’ve made a new carcass out of solid ash rather than MDF. I’m still going to veneer over it, but it made sense to use solid wood as a base as it will make the hinges a bit simpler to fit.
You can see that I’ve made some inserts to split the case into different compartments for each watch. The hinges are high quality quadrant hinges. I still need to cut a deep mortice into the ash carcass to house the arc stay when the lid is closed. You can just see the stays in place on the photo below.
The next step will be to veneer the case with this lush english walnut burr. Stay tuned.www.danieltomlinson.co.uk
Here are 2 photos of the king-size bed I’ve just finished making. It’s made from ash, with laminated beech sprung slats. The legs and rails are all reassuringly chunky, so I added curves to soften the look. I hope you like it!